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環保宗師少年郎 與丹尼•徐對談(下)

Oh Danny Boy
An interview with green-style guru Danny Seo

作者:阿曼達•葛里康 (Grist Magazine專欄作家)

BY AMANDA GRISCOM
21 Sep 2004

問:通用電氣和星巴克都是大型跨國企業,因此被迫縮減成本開支、使用廉價勞工、輸入境外資源並摧毀當地產業,更不用提這些公司的環境措施都有許多問題,尤其是通用電氣,這會使你感到不安嗎

答:我想這未免過於武斷了。並不是所有的大型跨國企業都對當地的社會與需求漠不關心,有的公司是那樣沒錯,但還有很多像星巴克和通用電氣這樣的公司,其實非常在意企業社會責任,並努力擺脫企業怪獸的形象。最重要的是,這些是影響力最大的公司,能真正贊助具有突破性的科技研究。看看汽車產業,它們全都是些大公司。我們不能一竿子打翻一船人,事實上,這些企業正是人們消費的地方。

問:你給名人們做什麼樣的咨詢服務?

丹尼•徐與喜劇演員崔西•歐曼(Tracey Ullman)為友。

答:一開始我的事業與好萊塢沒有任何關係,我從未自動請纓,毛遂自薦上門為任何演員、女演員或音樂家工作。可是一旦你寫了幾本書,你便成為該議題的權威。我真的不是主動想跟明星們攪和,是他們自己來找我的,因為這些名人遇到一些問題,他們想知道如何做才正確並希望成為榜樣,這樣的例子有太多太多了。

問:舉例來說?

答:有位女演員真的很關心「衝突鑽石」(conflict diamonds)的問題,但她被迫必須穿著珠寶參加首映典禮,於是我和她一同尋找具有認證的鑽石,能證明鑽石的開採地與開採者都和「衝突鑽石」無關。也有名人打電話來問,他們有個游泳池但不想以氯消毒,該如何造個淡水游泳池?我很高興能幫他們的忙,因為在上脫口秀或接受訪問時他們可以談論這些事──事實上,流行文化有很大一部份時這些名流所塑造的,這是現實。

  有位女演員在接受訪問時說;「我穿的是百分之百的再製喀什米爾羊毛。我很認同穿著再製材質這個做法,同時看起來很美,我喜歡它。」這個講法很聰明,讓它不只是環保意識而已,也相當性感。喔我的天哪!真有趣──她正好傳簡訊來問我是否覺得她像吹牛老爹(P. Diddy)那樣,弄件「不投票,毋寧死」(Vote or Die)的T恤來穿穿。

Q: Does it concern you that GE and Starbucks are major international corporations, and therefore driven to cut costs, use cheap labor, import resources, and devastate local businesses? Not to mention the fact that there are problems with the environmental practices of both of those companies, GE in particular?

A: I think it's a generalization. It isn't true that all major corporations are insensitive to local communities and their needs. Some companies do that, but there are many -- such as a Starbucks, such as a GE -- that are actually very sensitive and working hard on not being one of those monsters. On top of it all, these are the companies that can effect the biggest change, and these are the companies that can actually fund the research and technology that have a sweeping change. Look at the automotive industry -- they're all big companies. We can't just write them off. The fact is, these are the companies where people shop.

Q: What kind of consulting are you doing with celebrities?

Palling around with comedian Tracey Ullman.

A: Originally my business had nothing to do with Hollywood. I never actively solicited any actors or actresses or musicians to work with. But once you write a couple of books, you become an authority on an issue. I'm really not a star fucker. These people came to me. There are a lot of examples where celebrities had real problems. They wanted to know how to do the right thing and be role models for the right.

Q: What are some examples?

A: There was an actress who was really concerned about conflict diamonds, but she was pressured to wear gemstones to a red-carpet premiere. So I worked with her to find non-conflict diamonds that were certified and guaranteed to the point where we knew where it was mined and who mined it. Or there will be celebrities who call and say they have a pool and don't want it to be chlorinated. How do I create a freshwater pool? I'm happy to help them out because when they go onto a talk show or do an interview they can talk about this stuff. And the reality is a lot of our pop culture comes from celebrities.

There's one actress, when she gets interviewed she's like, "I'm wearing completely recycled cashmere. I believe in wearing recycled materials, but it looks pretty too and I just love it." She's smart about talking that way, so it doesn't come off as just environmentally conscious, but sexified. Oh my god! How funny -- she just instant-messaged me to ask if I think she should get one of those "Vote or Die" T-shirts like P. Diddy!

問:有哪些高級時裝系列和你合作?在高級時尚的世界裡有什麼人做了像樣的環保工作?

丹尼•徐與模特兒安吉拉•琳佛(Angela Lindvall)合影。

答:我為Imitation of Christ設計了兩季。喬治歐•亞曼尼(Giorgio Armani)做了很多—─他使用很多大麻纖維和有機材質。事實上我只是拿他舉個例子而已。像凱瑟琳•漢耐特(Katherine Hamnett)也做了很多,史黛拉•麥卡尼(Stella McCartney)很棒──她的鞋子和配件用的都是人造皮革,但不是聚氯乙烯基(PVC)的合成物,是聚甲胺酯基(polyurethane)的,所以對環境不是那麼糟糕,而產品也很漂亮,這對動物權利人士來講實在很棒。在洛杉磯還有很多專攻再製纖維、名氣較小的設計師。

  但話說回來也有像Dolce & Gabbana那樣的設計師──他們實在太糟糕了。我不但不和他們合作,還在洛杉磯舉行派對,要所有賓客簽署大型請願書要求他們停止使用毛皮。他們在歐洲使用幼海豹毛皮並將其製成大衣,那不是很駭人嗎?

問:在所有你合作過的名人中,有誰讓你覺得真正投入其中的?

答:說真的我不便指名道姓的。

問:你認為這年頭名人比政治人物更有說服力嗎?

答:並不盡然,但他們的確引領潮流。如果我能使他們為環保產品背書並開創環保潮流,不是很好嗎? (全文完)
 

Q: What are the haute-couture outfits that you work with? Who does good environmental work in the high-fashion world?

Preening with model Angela Lindvall.

A: I designed two seasons for Imitation of Christ. Giorgio Armani does a lot -- he uses a lot of hemp and organic materials. Actually, I use him for a lot. Katherine Hamnett does a lot. Stella McCartney is great -- her shoes and accessories are all faux leather, but it's not a PVC-based synthetic, it's polyurethane-based, so it's actually not so terrible for the environment, and the products are beautiful. So for the animal-rights people it's really nice. There are a lot of smaller designers in L.A. especially that work with recycled fabrics.

But then there are designers like Dolce & Gabbana -- they're so terrible. Not only do I not work with them, but I've also thrown parties in L.A. where all the guests have to sign a giant petition to get them to stop using fur. In Europe they use baby-seal fur and make coats out of it, isn't that heinous?

Q: In all your work with celebrities, who has impressed you as really getting it?

A: I really don't name names.

Q: Do you think celebrities are more persuasive than politicians these days?

A: Not necessarily, but they do define trends. And if I can get them to endorse green products and start green trends, all the better.

 


全文與圖片詳見:
http://www.grist.org/news/maindish/2004/09/21/griscom-seo/
版權歸屬Grist Magazine,台灣環境資訊協會 (劉又慎 譯,蔡季勳審校)
 

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