木質系取代快時尚 「森林製造」永續服飾現身聯合國 | 台灣環境資訊協會-環境資訊中心

木質系取代快時尚 「森林製造」永續服飾現身聯合國

2018年07月20日
環境資訊中心外電;姜唯 翻譯;林大利 審校;稿源:ENS

紐約市是美國服裝設計師的聖殿,但肅穆的聯合國總部跟時尚看似八竿子打不著。不過,隨著聯合國永續發展高階政治論壇年度會議在本週舉行,聯合國總部也沾染了時尚氣息。

聯合國大樓代表入口和秘書大廳展示了許多設計師的作品,都是以森林衍生材料製成。

圖片來源:UNECE/FAO Forestry and Timber Section.

聯合國大廳展示永續時尚。圖片來源:UNECE/FAO Forestry and Timber Section.

為了讓全球時尚產業往永續的方向發展,10個聯合國組織齊聚論壇,並協議建立聯合國永續時尚聯盟;會外活動則由聯合國歐洲經濟委員會(UN Economic Commission for Europe,UNECE)主辦。

全球服飾產量成長一倍  衣服壽命減半

時尚產業在21世紀初期出現了驚人成長。UNECE的資料顯示,其目前產業價值超過2.5兆美元,在全球雇用超過7500萬人。

2000年至2014年間,全球服飾產量成長一倍。 UNECE表示,與15年前相比,現在一般消費者購買的個人服飾增加了60%,然而每件衣服的使用壽命只剩下一半,整個產業已進入聯合國所謂的「快時尚」時代。

儘管就業機會增加,但這樣的發展有其代價。時尚業的現狀可說是環境和社會的緊急狀態——時尚產業貢獻全球近20%的廢水,也佔全球碳排放量的10%左右。

圖片來源:Greenpeace

中國紡織業女工。圖片出自綠色和平2014年針對中國服飾有害物質殘留調查報告。圖片來源:Greenpeace

紡織工業亦是海洋塑膠垃圾的主要貢獻者,對環境和健康的負面影響日益增加。

由於不安全的製造過程和生產中使用的有害物質,快時尚也存在許多危險工作環境問題。

楊紫瓊拍短片  說一個永續時尚的故事

倡導永續時尚的馬來西亞籍影星、聯合國開發計劃署親善大使楊紫瓊,16日為論壇的部長級會議開場,推出她的新影片〈森林製造〉,訴說一個關於永續時尚的故事。

「我們不太會想到服飾會對環境造成什麼影響。一件夾克、一條裙子看起來不錯,我們也買得起,我們就會買。但環境為此付出了代價。」楊紫瓊說。

影片中,楊紫瓊探尋永續時尚可能的樣貌,而不犧牲衣服本身的美感。其中一個答案是採用經認證的永續森林織物生產高級時裝。

影片並帶到義大利的「Cittadellarte Fashion B.E.S.T.」藝術基金會 。該基金會透過藝術和教育推廣永續服裝設計。楊紫瓊在論壇上穿著的連身裙,就是由基金會的年輕設計師卡迪尼(Tiziano Guardini)所設計,完全以經認證的永續木質纖維製成。

联合国开发计划署亲善大使、著名影星杨紫琼7月16日在2018可持续发展高级别政治论坛开幕式上致辞。圖片來源:联合国图片/Loey Felipe

聯合國開發計劃署親善大使楊紫瓊。圖片來源:聯合國 UN

全球森林現況改善 永續時尚聯盟明年啟動 

根據聯合國秘書長的最新報告,整體而言,地球森林現況已有改善。

「森林淨損失持續減緩,每公頃森林的生物量穩定,」秘書長古特雷斯(António Guterres)指出,「更多的森林受到保護,具備長期管理計劃和自願認證的面積也有所增加。從2010年到2015年,全球森林面積的年度淨損失不到90年代的一半。」

聯合國表示,未來仍將致力於改變時尚的路線,減少其對社會、經濟和環境的負面影響,並轉化為實現永續發展目標(SDGs)的動力。

聯合國環境署將主持首屆聯合國永續時尚聯盟,並於2019年3月下屆環境大會上正式啟動。

Sustainable Styles Sparkle at UN High Level Forum
NEW YORK, New York, July 17, 2018 (ENS)

New York City is a magnet for America's fashion designers, but fashion hasn't been a feature in the sober halls of United Nations headquarters. That changed this week as the High Level Political Forum on Sustainable Development held its annual meeting there.

A fashion exhibit at the Delegates Entrance and in the Secratariat Lobby of the UN building showcases the work of many designers, all inspired to use forest-derived materials for their creations.

In an attempt to steer the global fashion industry onto a more sustainable path, 10 different UN organizations got together at the Forum and agreed to establish a UN Alliance on Sustainable Fashion.

The side event was hosted by the UN Economic Commission for Europe, UNECE.

The fashion industry has seen a spectacular growth in the early 21st century. UNECE data shows it is now valued at more than US$2.5 trillion and employs over 75 million people worldwide.

Between 2000 and 2014, global clothing production doubled. The average consumer now buys 60 percent more individual garments compared to 15 years ago, says UNECE. Yet, each clothing item is now kept half as long. The industry has entered the era of what the UN agency calls "fast fashion."

Despite an increase in jobs, this development comes at a price. The current state of the fashion industry can be described as an environmental and social emergency.

Nearly 20 percent of global waste water is produced by the fashion industry, which also emits about 10 percent of global carbon emissions.

The textiles industry has been identified as a major contributor to plastic entering the ocean, which is a growing concern with negative environmental and health implications.

Fast fashion also is linked to dangerous working conditions due to unsafe processes and hazardous substances used in production.

Malaysian-born film star and UNDP Goodwill Ambassador Michelle Yeoh, a sustainable fashion champion, opened the Forum's Ministerial Segment on Monday, and launched her new video "Made in Forests," a sustainable fashion story.

"The connection between our clothes and our impact on the environment doesn't immediately come to mind," said Yeoh. "If a jacket or a skirt or a dress looks good, and we can afford it, we buy it. But the environment pays the price."

In her video, Yeoh sets out to find out "…what sustainable fashion could look like, without compromising the beauty of our clothes."

One answer: high-fashion produced with certified sustainable new generation forest-based fabrics.

The video takes us to Italy's Cittadellarte Fashion B.E.S.T. – an art foundation that promotes sustainable fashion design through art and education.

Here young design talent Tiziano Guardini creates a beautiful dress for her entirely made of certified sustainable wood-based fibres. Michelle wore the dress in New York today at the launch of the movie.

Generally, the Earth's forests are doing better these days, according to the UN Secretary-General's most recent report.

"The net loss of forest continues to slow and forest biomass stock per hectare is stable," reports Secretary-General Antonio Guterres. "More forests are being protected and areas under long-term management plans and voluntary certification have increased. From 2010 to 2015, the annual net loss of forest area globally was less than half that of the 1990s."

Still, the UN is committed to changing the path of fashion, reducing its negative social, economic and environmental impact and turning it into a driver for the implementation of the Sustainable Development Goals.

UN Environment will host the UN Alliance on Sustainable Fashion during its first year, and will formally launch it at their next Environment Assembly in March 2019.

※ 全文及圖片詳見:ENS

作者

姜唯

如果有一件事是重要的,如果能為孩子實現一個願望,那就是人類與大自然和諧共存。

林大利

於特有生物研究保育中心服務,小鳥和棲地是主要的研究對象。是龜毛的讀者,認為龜毛是探索世界的美德。